1.  Should I use an external transmission cooler in conjunction with the oil cooler supplied in the radiator?

Answer: Unless operating in an environment where the outside temperature is below 0°F, you should cap off the radiator cooler line openings and run your cooler lines directly to a new cooler mounted in front of the radiator. This allows the transmission to have its own cooling system and doesn't allow the engine water temperature to heat the fluid.

2.  What is the correct size cooler for my application?

Answer: Unlike a lot of items you buy for your vehicle, bigger is predominately better when it comes to transmission coolers. The answer would be as big as you can get or to run multiple coolers in series, again staying away from the factory radiator cooler lines.

3.  Where should I mount a transmission cooler?

Answer: Monster Transmission highly recommends mounting your external transmission oil cooler in front of the radiator. This allows for adequate airflow. If this is not possible then you should mount it in a location where the cooler can receive airflow. In extremely tight quarters, you may also mount the cooler and build an air dam that would allow the cooler to have air pass through it.

4.  What type of clearance should I have between the torque converter and flexplate before pulling the converter forward and bolting it to flexplate?

Answer: You should have 1/8" (.125") to 3/16" (.1875") between the torque converter and flexplate before pulling the converter forward and bolting it to flexplate.

5.  Is there an ideal way to measure the converter and transmission outside the car to make sure you should have the proper clearance between the converter and the flex plate before installation?

Answer: Yes, you can use a straight edge, laying it across the face of the bell housing. (Engine side) Then with the converter installed in transmission, take a ruler and measure the distance from the straight edge down to the mounting pad of the converter. The measurement should be as follows: 

• GM Turbo-Hydramatic 4L60 1 1/8" from Bell housing to Pads
• GM Turbo-Hydramatic 4L60E 1 1/8" from Bell housing to Pads
• GM Turbo-Hydramatic 4L80E 1 1/8" from Bell housing to Pads
• GM Turbo-Hydramatic 350 1 1/8" from Bell housing to Pads
• GM Turbo-Hydramatic 400 1 3/16" from Bell housing to Pads
• GM Powerglide 1 1/8" from Bell housing to Pads
• Ford C-6 1 1/8" from Bell housing to Pads
• Ford C-4 1 1/8" from Bell housing to Pads
• Ford AOD & AODE 1 1/8" from Bell housing to Pads
• Chrysler Torqueflite 727 1 ¼" from Bell housing to Ring gear (NOT PADS)

Note: Distance may vary either way .050".

6.  Should I replace the front seal and bushing in my transmission before installing the new Monster Transmission torque converter I just purchased?

Answer: Yes. You should inspect the old converter you are removing for damage to the converter hub that rides in the pump of the transmission. If you find any wear on the hub at all, you should replace both seal and bushing. If you find no wear at all, you may be fine with just a seal replacement. You should at least do one (seal) if not both. (seal & bushing)

7.  What does the term "Lock-Up" mean?

Answer: This term refers to a converter that contains an internal lock-up piston or device, either friction or mechanical. Transmissions such as TH350C, 200-4R, 4L60 (700-R4), 4L60E, 4L80E, AOD, AODE and others, use these methods of eliminating slippage for an increase in fuel economy. Older transmissions such as the TH400, TH350, C-6, C-4 and others did not incorporate these methods of lock-up. The only way to increase fuel efficiency in these types of converters is to change clearances, redirect fin angles and usually lower the actual stall speed.

8.  What is the difference in the terms "Flash Stall" and "Foot-Brake Stall"?

Answer: Of the two measurements of stall, 'Flash Stall' is the most accurate. Foot-Brake stall is dependant upon too many variables. (i.e. type of braking system, disc or drum brakes, how well adjusted the brake system is, ring and pinion ratios effect foot-brake stall more dramatically, idle characteristics of engine, cam installation for low end torque as needed by automatic transmission.)

Flash Stall can be determined a couple of different ways:

• With the vehicle sitting still and idling in low gear, apply full throttle. As the vehicle begins its motion forward, notice the RPM hand on the tachometer. That is your Flash Stall. (Engine should be very responsive from idle. If not, camshaft timing and/or carburetor adjustments may need to be made in order for engine to be crisp from idle.)
• With the vehicle in forward motion in high or drive gear and at its lowest mph where it will not kick back to a lower gear, apply full throttle while noticing rpm hand of tachometer. (This measurement of flash stall is best achieved with a full manual transmission.)

9.  What does the Vacuum Modulator do?

Answer: The vacuum modulator is a canister that contains a diaphragm and a calibrated spring. The diaphragm senses changes in engine vacuum due to throttle position/load changes and transfers the diaphragm motion to the modulator valve in the transmission. The calibrated spring opposes the diaphragm movement. This provides the means for the transmission to adjust internal pressures based upon torque demand by the engine.

10.  Is there a right way or a wrong way to hook up my vacuum modulator?

Answer: Since the transmission is so dependent upon the modulator to function properly, a good vacuum signal must be transferred from the intake manifold down to the modulator. The best way to insure this is to utilize hard steel line to carry the vacuum signal with approximately three inches (maximum) of rubber hose on each end for the connections. This setup will prevent the hose from cracking or burning in areas that are close to the exhaust system and will also reduce the chances of the hose collapsing onto itself. Most modulators require a minimum of 15 inches of Hg (Mercury) at idle to function properly.

 11.  Are there any adjustments that can be made to the modulator?

Answer: Stock factory modulators are pre-set and most are sealed. Monster Transmission modulator-type transmissions are all equipped with adjustable modulators. By turning the adjusting screw (found in the vacuum nipple) counterclockwise, you will lower the spring pre-load. This will cause earlier shifts. By turning the adjusting screw clockwise and raising the spring pre-load, the shift points will go up. The range of adjustability is only a few mph either way.